Kolokithopita – Pumpkin Pita

My mother’s questioning became more urgent as the weeks progressed. “I still have the pumpkin. Can we make the kolokithopita when you visit? Do you think you’re coming soon?” The great pumpkin had been sitting in the dining room corner, as if in time out, since Thanksgiving. It was now well into March. Would it even still be edible? My dad was the biggest skeptic. We cut it one afternoon, not long before I had to leave NJ to get back to Philly for class. We were all pleasantly surprised to find the meat inside okay.

Pita, both savory and sweet, is popular throughout Greece. There are many regional variations based on what grows best in the area. Because we’ve always enjoyed my mom’s spanakopita (spinach pie), I wrongfully assumed that she brought the recipe with her from Greece. But she actually started to make it after moving to the US, since spinach wasn’t grown in her village. That got her reminiscing about a pumpkin pita that her mother used to make when they were still living in Greece. “It was really the only sweet dessert we had in the village” she recalled.

“You need enough for three layers” my mother repeated countless times, as I grated pumpkin for what seemed like an eternity, and she chopped walnuts. I would take both to Philadelphia to make the kolokithopita according to her instructions, not always the clearest.

Kolokithopita is not the most popular pita here in the US, at least not in our circle. I was excited to find some on my trip to Astoria this past November. That version had cubed pumpkin, what appeared to be bulgur, raisins, cinnamon, and maybe cloves wrapped in homemade phyllo, and resembling an empanada. I found a few cookbook recipes for sweet versions that included rice, or breadcrumbs, and even onions. Internet searches turned up a lot of zucchini-based recipes. But I wanted the version my mom reminisced about from the village.  

“Do you remember how to make it?” I asked my mother, Maria, not long after I started the pita challenge. She didn’t. This would set off a series of calls and conversations with my Theia (Aunt) Maria, in town, and my mother’s cousin (also a Maria), who at the time was wintering in Greece (life goals). This is also how my parents ended up with a gigantic pumpkin keeping them company all winter. After a few phone calls about the recipe, Theia Maria bought a pumpkin so we could make the kolokithopita. Seems I was not the only one enthusiastic about recreating it.   

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Theia Maria would also remind my mom that it wasn’t my Yiayia (grandmother) that made the kolokithopita, but my mom’s Theia Kyriaki. She would bake it in the community oven when she would come to the village to visit, my mom was just too young to remember. This seemed to make sense to me. The only thing I ever remember my grandmother cooking was some boiled eggs. She did, to her credit, raise three amazing cooks, my mom and my Theias Despina and Kyriaki.  

Between the council of the three Marias, the recipe was determined. I would just need to make a few adjustments since they all cook in bulk quantities…using ratios measured in what most of us are more are familiar with as drinking vessels. One of my mom’s favorite measuring cups is this drinking glass. The fence not only adds to the happy scene, but serves as a “half cup” mark, handy.

Luckily, the process is similar to baklava, a recipe I’m already familiar with: thin phyllo dough is layered in a pan and brushed with olive oil (instead of butter), covered with alternating layers of pumpkin, and sugared-cinnamon-spiced walnuts. Repeat one more time (or twice for a higher pita). Then a final layer of olive oil kissed phyllo sheets on top. The pie is cut into diamond shaped pieces and baked.

After it has cooled, a lemon and cinnamon-tinged simple syrup is poured over to soak it.

I brought some to mom the following day. “I love it,” she said, smiling.

The recipe below is enough for a 9 x 13 inch pan, using standard measuring cups. Since it calls for oil instead of butter, it is a fasting friendly recipe.

Kolokithopita
12 cups grated pumpkin, drained well
4 cups chopped walnuts
1 pound phyllo (13 x 9 inch sheets), thawed
¼ cup sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
½ cup olive oil

Syrup
1 ½ cups (340 g) sugar
1 ½ cups (355 g) water
1 ½ teaspoon lemon juice
1 lemon slice (round)
1 cinnamon stick

Equipment: Pastry brush, cheesecloth, damp dishtowel

Yield: About 20 pieces

Advanced Prep/Notes:  

• Thaw phyllo in refrigerator overnight, or about 4-6 hours before using.
• Squeeze as much liquid as possible from the grated pumpkin using the cheesecloth. The grated pumpkin can also be placed in a colander to drain in the refrigerator overnight.
• The cooked kolokithopita will need to be cooled completely before adding the hot syrup to it.
• Keep phyllo covered with a damp dishtowel while assembling the kolokithopita to help prevent the phyllo from drying out.

Prepare Kolokithopita

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. In a medium sized mixing bowl, add chopped walnuts, cinnamon, and sugar and mix well.
3. Lightly oil the bottom of a 9 x 13 inch pan.
4. Remove phyllo from refrigerator, lay out on flat surface and count sheets, approximately 20-24 sheets will be needed (two layers of 6-7 sheets and one layer of 8-10).
5. Place one sheet of phyllo on bottom of oiled pan. Lightly brush the phyllo with olive oil and then place another sheet of phyllo on top. Repeat until you have 6-7 sheets of phyllo, making sure to brush each sheet with oil.
6. Spread an even layer of grated pumpkin over the oiled phyllo sheet, covering the phyllo completely.
7. Spread an even layer of the walnut, sugar and cinnamon mixture over the grated pumpkin, covering completely.
8. Lightly drizzle walnut mixture with olive oil (about ½ – 1 teaspoon)
9. Add another layer of 6-7 phyllo sheets, as in step 5, (lightly brushing each sheet of phyllo with olive oil).
10. Add another layer of pumpkin, walnut mixture, and drizzled olive oil, as in steps 6-8.
11. Add the final layer of phyllo sheets, this time using 8-10 sheets of phyllo, lightly brushing each sheet with olive oil. The entire top sheet of phyllo should be brushed with olive oil.
12. Using a very sharp knife, cut the kolokithopita into diamond or square shaped pieces.
13. Using your fingers, sprinkle the top of the cut kolokithopita with a little bit of water and place in a 350°F oven for 45-60 minutes, until the top is golden brown.
14. Remove kolokithopita and allow to cool to room temperature. Kolokithopita can be left out at room temperature overnight if making syrup the following day.

Make Syrup

1. In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, add sugar, water, lemon juice, lemon wheel and cinnamon stick.
2. Simmer on low for 25-30 minutes.
3. Remove syrup from heat and allow to cool for 10 minutes.
4. Pour syrup over cooled kolokithopita and allow it to absorb into the kolokithopita and cool before eating. Depending on the desired sweetness, you may not use all the syrup.

Kolokithopita can be kept covered at room temperature for 2-3 days. If desired, place in a low oven for about 5 minutes to warm the pita and crisp up the phyllo.